麦地那漫步与书法驻足

You start at Bab Doukkala while the deliveries are still coming through on handcarts, and walk south through the spice sellers of Rahba Kedima into the quieter lanes behind Mouassine. Your guide reads the doorways for you: the carved cedar, the hand of Fatima, the height of a threshold that tells you what stood there before.

The walk ends at a calligrapher's table. He cuts a reed qalam while you watch, explains why Maghrebi script curves where eastern Arabic script does not, and writes your name in it. You leave with the sheet.

Best in the morning, before the souks fill. It suits travelers who want the medina explained rather than performed, and it works with children from about eight.