Крыша La Terrasse des Épices

The stairs climb from Souk Cherifia, past the fabric stalls, to a roof cut into booths of woven cane. Rahba Kedima and its spice sellers are directly below. The Koutoubia stands out to the west, and on a clear evening the Atlas sits behind it.

The kitchen keeps to Moroccan salads, grilled fish, and a tanjia ravioli filled with slow-cooked beef shank, preserved lemon and cumin. There is a chocolate pastilla at the end. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free plates are on the card and the meat is halal.

We hold a west-facing booth for sunset. Service runs to half past midnight. It is the evening after the souks that does not require leaving them, and nobody here will look at what you are wearing.