سوق أسني وقصبة تامادوت

Asni holds its weekly souk on Saturday, and it is a working market rather than a display. Traders arrive before eight with mules, sheep, tomatoes, cones of cumin, spare parts and secondhand coats. You walk it with a guide who can explain what is being argued over, and buy only if you want to.

By midday you take the short climb to Kasbah Tamadot, Richard Branson's house above the valley, and lunch on the terrace with the Atlas directly in front of you. The kitchen keeps a Moroccan register with a lighter hand than most.

The souk closes in the early afternoon and the valley empties. This day runs on Saturdays only, and the Kasbah table is confirmed with the hotel before your date.