قصر الباهية والملاح

The Bahia was built for Ba Ahmed, a grand vizier who wanted every Moroccan craft under one roof and had the means to commission them all at once. You move through the small riad, the great courtyard of Italian marble, and the painted cedar ceilings of the harem quarters, where the pigment is still the original.

Ten minutes on foot brings you to the Mellah, laid out in 1558 and still dense with the trades that served the palace: goldsmiths, spice merchants, the Lazama synagogue behind an unmarked door. Your guide handles the history without flattening it.

Three hours, mostly shaded and mostly flat. Bahia opens at nine, and the first hour is the calm one.