غداء في نادي بلدي الريفي

Six kilometers out on the Route du Barrage, the Beldi is an old farm turned into gardens: olive rows, a rose field that flowers from March, workshops for glass and weaving, and three pools, one of them heated through winter.

Lunch is Moroccan and Mediterranean, written from the morning market rather than a fixed card. You eat in the garden under the olives, or on the terrace above the roses when the wind is up. Afterwards the grounds stay yours for the afternoon, with a lounger held in the shade.

Children are welcome and nobody hurries you. Families take the whole afternoon here, and so does anyone who wants a day with no medina in it.