شلالات أوزود

Ouzoud drops a hundred meters in three stages through a gorge in the Middle Atlas, two and a half hours northeast of Marrakech. The name means olives, and the terraces above the falls are still worked by hand.

You start at the top, where the water leaves the plateau, then take the path down through the olives to the pools. It is a steady descent of about forty minutes and a slower climb back. Barbary macaques live in the trees along the route and are entirely unbothered by visitors. A flat-bottomed boat will take you close enough to the spray to need a towel.

Lunch is a tagine on one of the terraces facing the water. Spring carries the most volume. It suits walkers, families with older children, and photographers.