Cena en el Palais Dar Soukkar

Dar Soukkar was a sugar refinery. The volume is still industrial: a high roof, iron frames, long tables, and in summer a terrace that opens straight to the sky. Service starts at seven and runs to two in the morning.

The card crosses Moroccan, Mediterranean and Asian in one sitting: a tartare scented with orange blossom, Thai chicken salad with crisp noodles, tagines, grilled meats, guacamole with spiced tortillas. Musicians play from around nine. The room fills after ten, which is when it is worth being in it.

Take the early seating for a quieter dinner, the late one for the room at full volume. Suits a night with no early start after it, and groups who want one long table rather than several.