عشاء في قصر دار السكر

Dar Soukkar was a sugar refinery. The volume is still industrial: a high roof, iron frames, long tables, and in summer a terrace that opens straight to the sky. Service starts at seven and runs to two in the morning.

The card crosses Moroccan, Mediterranean and Asian in one sitting: a tartare scented with orange blossom, Thai chicken salad with crisp noodles, tagines, grilled meats, guacamole with spiced tortillas. Musicians play from around nine. The room fills after ten, which is when it is worth being in it.

The early seating is the quieter dinner; the late one is the room at full volume. Neither leaves you fit for a seven o'clock departure the next morning. Groups get one long table instead of several.