درس طبخ في بيت أمازيغي

An hour south of the city the Ourika valley narrows and the houses go pisé and flat-roofed. You are cooking in one of them, with the family who lives there.

The morning starts with what came up from the garden: courgette, broad beans, coriander, mint. You learn to fold khobz and carry it to the neighbourhood oven, then build a tagine from the bottom up, oil and onion first, and find out why the cone matters. While it cooks you sit on the terrace with tea and almonds.

Lunch is what you made. Four hours, no rush, and the drive back is downhill. It suits children who like to work with their hands.